Agostino Pavia e Figli

Giuseppe and Mauro Pavia have run this place since the 1980s, and between them they turn one set of family hillsides into four different Barbera d'Asti — from the easygoing Blina to the more serious Casareggio. It's all estate fruit, all Barbera bar the Monferrato Rosso, and the point they'll happily make is that the same grape says four different things depending on how it's aged.

Visitors tend to describe the tastings the same way: unhurried, a little nonchalant because the brothers are usually mid-work when you turn up, with thick slices of salami set out beside the glasses. Prices stay friendly, and they'll ship a case home if something wins you over. The cellar sits at Località Molizzo, a few minutes out of Agliano Terme — call ahead on +39 0141 954125 before you drive up.