Azienda Agricola Filippa

Filippa has been a family name in Agliano Terme for five generations, and these days it's Matteo who walks you through the cellar — in good English, which not every grower on these hills can manage. The reds are the heart of it: Barbera d'Asti first, then Grignolino and Dolcetto, with Chardonnay, Cortese and Moscato on the white side and a rosato for summer.

Come at the right moment in September and you might catch the harvest in full swing; the rest of the year it's a proper tour, start to finish, that ends with five wines poured against local salumi and cheese. Book ahead through their site rather than turning up, and note they're shut Sundays and only open mornings on Saturday. The tasting room keeps morning and afternoon hours the rest of the week.