Up on the Burio hill above Costigliole, the Baldi family farm Barbera, Grignolino, Moscato, Nebbiolo, Arneis and a little Chardonnay, all organic. The Barbera does the heavy lifting — there's a Superiore called 'Balau' — and the Grignolino 'Campoporta' is the one to try if you've decided you don't like Grignolino. Every label carries its own small story, which they'll happily tell you.
Gisella and Gabriele run the tours themselves, in Italian, English or French, and the welcome feels more like being asked into the house than booked into a tasting room — a couple of visitors turn up and still get a two-hour walk through the cellar. Open Monday to Saturday and Sunday mornings; ring first, and the view down the rows is half the reason to climb the hill.