The Boeri family has pressed Barbera above the hamlet of Bionzo, in the hills of Costigliole d'Asti, since 1904 — five generations now, and the cru still carries the hamlet's name. Bionzo is their top wine, a Barbera d'Asti Superiore that Vivino drinkers rate highest of anything they make, but the range runs wider than most estates this size: Pörlapà and Martinette in Barbera, a Ribota Moscato d'Asti, the Beviòn Chardonnay, even a Barolo and a couple of spumanti.
Book ahead and Giorgio, Mery or another of the family will open the cellar, pour the Barbera, whites and Brut, and set out platters of local salumi and cheese with a view of the hills to go with them. Weekday hours, closed Sundays; German and English are no trouble here. Bionzo is barely a scatter of houses on a ridge, and the Boeris have been the constant on it for over a century.