Ceretti Michele e figlio SNC

Ceretti has been bottling at Incisa Scapaccino since 1952, and the family's on its third generation now. The house names tell you the priorities — Cèret, Cèret-One — built on Nizza DOCG and Barbera d'Asti Superiore, with Langhe Nebbiolo, Grignolino, Chardonnay and Arneis rounding things out. Nine labels in all, split between the everyday I Classici and the pricier Le Selezioni.

There's no showroom to walk into — the winery would rather you message ahead through their site than arrive unannounced, and a detailed note tends to get you a proper welcome. If you only try one, make it the Barbera d'Asti Superiore; it's the clearest read on what this corner of the Nizza hills can do. The cantina sits out on Via Crose, among the vines it draws from.