Ca’ dei Boschi

In the early 1990s the Schmucker family — Germans who'd fallen for Piemonte and its way of living — bought this small estate on the Valle Asinari ridge, with Nizza to the north and Canelli to the south. They kept the Barbera and Moscato that belong here and planted a little Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah alongside. Four wines come of it: Bricco Nero, Barbera to the bone; the Moscato they call Loup di Loop; a pure Syrah named Syrbricc; and Lupetto, a red blend.

It's a quiet place among cypresses, roses and olive trees, tended as much for the pleasure of it as for the bottles. There's no walk-in tasting room — the family sells direct, prices on request — so write or call ahead if you want the wines; the office answers in German, Italian and English.