Five generations up on the Bricco Mondalino, and the Gaudios still stake their name on Grignolino — the pale, wilful red that plenty of growers gave up on. Theirs is the argument for keeping it: grippy, a little bitter at the edge, the local grape done properly. Alongside it come a Barbera d'Asti, the unoaked one they call Zerolegno, and a sweet Malvasia di Casorzo, Dolce Stil Novo, for the end of a long lunch.
Beatrice and her family run the tastings themselves, and they'll move between Italian, English and French without much fuss — bring the children, someone usually ends up drawing at the table while the adults taste. It's a working farmhouse on a hill, not a polished show cellar. Book ahead through gaudiovini.it, sit down, and let them walk you through the classic, young and reserve lines before you decide what to carry home.