One perfect day in Canelli

Canelli is small, so you can take it slowly. Here's a day that moves with the town's rhythm rather than against it.

Morning — start in the piazza

Begin the way locals do: an espresso standing at the bar at Caffè Torino, right in the centre. The staff speak a little English and won't rush you — but do as everyone else does and drink it on your feet before the day begins.

Then walk up to the Cattedrali Sotterranee, Canelli's UNESCO-listed underground cellars — kilometres of tunnels cut into the tufa where sparkling wine has aged for over a century. Book a guided tour ahead; it's the one thing you shouldn't skip.

Late morning — the church and the climb

Stop at the Chiesa di San Tommaso, Canelli's central church — three naves under frescoed barrel vaults, and if you're lucky a shy young guide will walk you through the Baroque canvases. From the little square beside it, the footpath climbs to the Castello Gancia. Take it — good knees help.

At the top, the Castello di Canelli opens its gardens for guided visits — terraced grounds, a panoramic terrace over the vines, and a glass of Moscato to finish. The interior's private, but the gardens and the "Lovers' Path" on the way up are what you came for.

Lunch — under the big trees

Come back down for a long lunch at Osteria dei Meravigliati. Sit in the courtyard under the big trees — or the sky-blue painted room if it's warm — start with the complimentary grissini, and let them pour you a local wine by the glass. Buy the bottle you liked at the enoteca afterwards. The service, as one regular put it, makes you "smile all the time".

Afternoon — a proper cellar tour

Canelli is the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine, so give the afternoon to Coppo. The cellars are street-level and easy to walk, with exposed tufa caves dating back beyond 1902. Ask for Martina or Susanna if you can — they explain the Pomorosso, the Nizza and the Alta Langa in both Italian and English, and never push a sale. For a second option on the same square, Contratto makes historic metodo-classico spumante.

Evening — the tasting menu

End at Ristorante San Marco. Take the tasting menu and let the waiter — ask for Juliano — pair each course with local wine. Don't miss the vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce) and the gnocchi; the chef-owner turns small local ingredients into plates regulars compare to a Michelin experience. A quiet, fitting end to a Canelli day.