One perfect day in Canelli

Canelli is small, so you can do it slowly. Here's a day that moves with the town's rhythm rather than against it.

Morning — start in the piazza

Begin the way locals do: an espresso standing at the bar at Caffè Torino, right in the centre. The staff speak a little English and won't rush you — but do as everyone else does and drink it on your feet before the day begins.

Then walk up to the Cattedrali Sotterranee — Canelli's UNESCO-listed underground cellars, kilometres of tunnels carved into the tufa where sparkling wine has aged for over a century. Book a guided tour ahead; it's the one thing you shouldn't skip.

Late morning — the church and the climb

Stop at the Chiesa di San Tommaso, Canelli's central church — three naves under frescoed barrel vaults, and if you're lucky a shy young guide will walk you through the Baroque canvases. From the little square beside it starts the footpath up to the Castello Gancia. Take it (good knees help).

At the top, the Castello di Canelli opens its gardens for guided visits — splendid terraced grounds, a panoramic terrace with a spectacular view over the vines, and a glass of Moscato to finish. The castle interior is private, but the gardens and the "Lovers' Path" on the way up are the point.

Lunch — under the big trees

Come back down for a long lunch at Osteria dei Meravigliati. Sit in the courtyard under the big trees (or in the sky-blue painted room if it's warm), start with the complimentary grissini, and let them pour you a local wine by the glass — you can buy the bottle you liked at the enoteca afterwards. The service, as one regular put it, makes you "smile all the time".

Afternoon — a proper cellar tour

Canelli is the birthplace of Italian sparkling wine, so spend the afternoon at Coppo. The cellars are street-level and easy to walk, with exposed tufa caves dating back beyond 1902. Ask for Martina or Susanna if you can — guides here explain the Pomorosso, the Nizza and the Alta Langa in both Italian and English, and never push a sale. For a second option in the same square, Contratto makes historic metodo-classico spumante.

Evening — the tasting menu

End at Ristorante San Marco. Take the tasting menu and let the waiter — ask for Juliano — pair each course with local wine. Don't miss the vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce) and the gnocchi; the chef-owner works small local ingredients into something that regulars compare to a Michelin experience. A fitting end to a Canelli day.