Canelli

An old tower alone on a hilltop among the vineyards above Canelli, reached on foot by a short path through the vines, with a spiral staircase up to a 360-degree view over the surrounding towns. It's a favourite at sunset; parking is a roadside pull-in.

Canelli's spumante story started at Gancia in 1865, and its UNESCO-listed underground cathedrals run for over four kilometres of tuff galleries, a steady 12–14°C down there. The two-hour Tour Classico gives you four tastings with local products; the shorter Vermouth & Spirits tour (from €30) runs 30 minutes for three tastings and a cocktail. You pass the old Gancia advertising posters and the company museum along the way. Book directly with Casa Gancia.

You head into the woods in the Canelli hills with the Bussi family and their truffle dog, hunting white and black truffles on ground the family works itself. It winds up outside with a relaxed tasting of truffle dishes, local cheese and wine, kept small and unhurried.

Contratto has been making classic-method sparkling wine since 1867, and its UNESCO-listed underground cathedrals go over 5,000 m² deep — tunnels cut as far as 32 m into the hillside marl. The 90-minute visit takes you through the cellars, a gallery of historic documents and the 'Sack Room' museum of old tools, then ends on a wine and vermouth tasting (there's a children's rate). Booking required, Via G. B. Giuliani 52.

The lovers' path climbs gently from the town centre, easy enough for all ages, and you'll come out at a viewpoint over Canelli and the UNESCO wine hills all around.

Coppo is one of the historic houses whose tufa cellars make up Canelli's UNESCO Cattedrali Sotterranee. You walk the underground galleries where Metodo Classico and the town's Barbera age, then taste. Come during Canelli Città del Vino and you can pair it with a masterclass; the rest of the year it's a quieter stop.

This is where the Ramazzotti tradition lives in Canelli, a small, well-curated space where vintage posters and old bottles trace the brand's history. You can buy the amaro and related products on site, and arrange a factory tour ahead of time.

You go up between dawn and late morning, drifting an hour or so over the vineyards, villages and UNESCO wine landscapes around Canelli and the wider Langhe-Roero-Monferrato. A professional pilot flies it with a chase vehicle following below, and there's a flight 'baptism' and certificate at the end — about three hours all in. Year-round for 2–12 people; you settle the departure field when you book.

Canelli's central church: three naves under frescoed barrel vaults, with Baroque canvases on the walls. From the little square beside it, a footpath heads up toward the Canelli castle.

A local Cesarina hosts you in her 19th-century villa in the Langa Astigiana around Canelli, and you cook alongside her — traditional Piedmontese dishes made from scratch, then eaten at her own table. It's a home, not a school, which is rather the point. Booked through the Cesarine network of home cooks.

The baroque friezes and handsome interior are what people admire here, though the building's been left to itself for years. It's one for anyone with an eye for Canelli's faded architectural heritage.

A guided private e-bike ride out of Canelli through the UNESCO Monferrato vineyard landscape — about 39 km and 930 m of climbing, all on quiet paved back-roads. The motor takes the sting out of the hills, so you can look up at them instead. You'll want to be reasonably fit; e-bike rental is separate, from about €45 per person.

Guided visits get you into the castle's terraced gardens and out onto a terrace over the vineyards, finishing with a Moscato tasting. The 'Lovers' Path' leads up, and it's manageable with a stroller; the interior stays private, though.

You head into the woods around Canelli with a trifulau — a local truffle hunter — and his dog, who does the real finding. A tasting follows, so you eat what the morning turns up. It's one of the oldest things people still do in these hills, and you're in it, not watching.

Built as flood basins on the Belbo floodplain, this green riverside park's now where people come to walk, run and cycle. The wetlands and greenery pull in wildlife, from herons and ducks to the odd roe deer, all a short distance from the town centre.

A guide tells the story as you walk Canelli's UNESCO Underground Cathedrals — the town's history since the 1613 siege — past thousands of Metodo Classico bottles resting in the sandstone galleries. It ends with lunch or dinner at the Osteria dei Meravigliati, three of the cellar's wines poured alongside. Good if you want the narrative and the landscape, not just the cellars.

Planted around 1800, this monumental plane tree (Platanus × acerifolia) has shaded Canelli's square for more than two centuries — a hybrid of the oriental and American plane, valued for its broad canopy and its tolerance of city air. The pale, mottled trunk is massive and the branches sprawl right over the piazza's café tables. Everyone in town knows it.

The Bosca cellars are part of Canelli's UNESCO-listed Cattedrali Sotterranee — tufa tunnels cut as much as 32 metres under the town, where sparkling wine has aged for over a century. A guide walks you through the galleries and it ends with a tasting: one Classic Method sparkling wine and two by the Charmat Method. It's the clearest way to see why Canelli calls itself the città del vino.

The historic wine cellars dug into the tufa hill beneath Canelli, nicknamed the underground cathedrals, where bottles age at a steady 12 to 14°C. Part of the UNESCO-listed Piedmont vineyard landscape since 2014, they are seen on booked tours run by wine houses such as Bosca, Contratto and Coppo, ending with a tasting.

You ride your own vintage Vespa for a full day, looping through Barbaresco and dropping down into Canelli — home of Moscato and the Underground Cathedrals. The ~85-km 'Barbaresco and Canelli' route threads vineyard hills, villages and cellar country, with departures daily from April to November. You'll need a category-B licence; several languages on request.

A family-run restaurant down in the wine cellars of the Enoteca di Canelli, known for its veal tartare, handmade pasta and a deep list of Piedmontese wines at fair prices. A sommelier helps with pairings, and booking ahead is wise.

Piemontese cooking in a courtyard under big trees, or inside a striking sky-blue room. Every meal opens with house grissini and leans on local wines by the glass — note the one you like and buy the bottle at the enoteca afterwards. The service is cheerful and easy.

In the old centre, the chef-owner turns local ingredients into a multi-course tasting menu — the vitello tonnato and gnocchi that melt are the favourites. It's a refined, family-run kitchen; ask for Juliano to walk you through the wine pairings, and bring the kids, they're warmly welcome.

A modern sushi and Asian restaurant in Canelli, good value at lunchtime, where orders go in through a digital menu. The food is carefully presented, with the vegetable gyoza and spicy salmon sushi among the favourites.

A small restaurant in Canelli with tables on a little square, serving carefully presented Piedmontese plates such as braised veal cheek, tartare and peppers in tuna sauce. Portions are modest and the pastas and desserts are well liked. Service is usually attentive, though not everyone has found it friendly.

A cosy osteria in Canelli run by a friendly couple, with handmade pasta, homemade bread and dishes such as courgette flowers and lamb shoulder. Dinner on the terrace is a pleasure, though the place takes a little finding.

Piedmontese cooking meets Moroccan dishes such as tagine at this wine bar and restaurant in the stone-walled rooms of Palazzo Asinari, in the historic centre of Canelli. The wine list is strong and the young staff know it well. It suits an aperitivo as much as a full dinner.

A pastry shop and café in Canelli for good coffee with fresh pastries and cakes, at the counter or at tables outside. Regulars come for breakfast and an afternoon treat, and order their celebration cakes here too.

A new steakhouse in Canelli where the owner, who both cooks and serves, shows off the cuts and explains how he will cook each one. The beef fillet is a favourite and prices are fair for the quality of the meat. There is free parking outside.

A self-service lunch canteen in Canelli whose cooking is a cut above the usual canteen fare, with a wide daily choice and generous portions at fair prices. There is always a vegetarian dish, and the car park is free.

A small, stylishly decorated restaurant beside the church of San Rocco in Canelli, where the kitchen blends Piedmontese and Sicilian cooking. Dishes are beautifully presented and the service is warm and personal, with prices toward the higher end for the area.

Locals fill this busy pizzeria in Canelli, where the porcini mushroom pizza is a favourite and the pasta holds its own. Food arrives fast and prices are reasonable, though not much English is spoken.

Simple pasta, cooked fresh and full of flavour, is the draw at this small, friendly restaurant in the centre of Canelli. The hosts make everyone feel welcome, children included, and lunch here is quiet and unhurried.

An all-you-can-eat sushi restaurant in Canelli with a spacious, carefully designed dining room and quick, friendly service. The food is good value, there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan choices, and dogs are welcome.

Pastrmajlija, a Macedonian pizza-like pie topped with diced meat, egg and cheese, is the speciality at this family-run Balkan restaurant and pizzeria in Canelli. The mixed grill has fans too, though a couple of visitors found it overpriced.

Pinsa and pizza share the menu with home-style pasta and desserts at this quiet restaurant in Canelli, which has a family feel. The owner is friendly and attentive, and prices are fair.

A kebab and pizza shop in Canelli where the doner kebab, crisp and freshly made, is the reason to stop. It is cheap and clean, and the owner happily adapts orders.

A pub in Canelli with an unusual range of beers, quick food such as sandwiches, and an outdoor area for evenings with friends. The welcome is warm, though the music can get loud on Saturday nights.

This Turkish restaurant in Canelli also makes pizza, and portions are large for the low lunchtime prices. The room is quiet and well kept and the staff are kind, if sometimes slow.

A kebab and pizza shop in Canelli serving kebab in fresh bread or a piadina, plus a well-liked pizza kebab. Portions are generous, prices are low and the owner is kind.

Smash burgers are the speciality of this burger bar in Canelli, backed up by chicken wraps, burritos, wings and onion rings. Food comes out fast and prices are low, and some visitors go back several times in one week.

A pizzeria near the river in Canelli, mostly doing takeaway, where Neapolitan pizza makers turn out a long list of well-topped pizzas, gluten-free included. Prices are fair and the staff are friendly, though a few recent orders have come out burnt on the bottom.

A simple kiosk-style bar in Canelli for breakfast coffee and toasted sandwiches, or cocktails and wine at aperitivo time. The building is basic but the staff are warm and quick, and prices are low.

The restaurant of I Tre Poggi, a residence in the hills outside Canelli with spa rooms and an outdoor pool, serves classic Piedmontese dishes and a wide choice of wines. Service is unhurried and prices are above average. The road up takes some care.

A burek shop in Canelli making the Balkan filled pastry fresh, with a crisp outside and a well-flavoured filling. Portions are generous, so it makes a satisfying lunch stop.

A wine bar and restaurant in Canelli serving simple, traditional Piedmontese food with a wide choice of wines. The owners know their bottles and the aperitivo comes with plenty to eat. Themed dinners, such as a bagna cauda night, are also on the calendar.

Coffee by day, cocktails once the light goes — this is a locals' café, with simple bites like bread and local oil to go with the drinks. Relaxed, and glad to see you.

The gelato's what people come for, out on the piazza, with good coffee for the grown-ups. An easy stop in the flat old centre.

A small coffee shop in Canelli, more store than bar, with a wide and well-stocked range of products. The staff are courteous and know the stock well.

A wine bar and deli in Canelli stocked with local delicacies, from homemade ragù and olive oil to Moscato and spumante. Drinks on the small leafy terrace come with generous platters of Piedmontese antipasti, and Giorgio keeps the food coming.

An artisan pastry shop and café in Canelli where locals meet over breakfast, with filled cornetti baked on site, small pastries in many flavours and comfortable seats for a long sit. It also makes birthday and wedding cakes, caters for food intolerances, and does vegan croissants with a plant-based cappuccino.

A small bar in Canelli built around the evening aperitivo, with a Spritz or an Americano and plates of fresh cold cuts and other appetisers. The staff are friendly and flexible about late arrivals, and there's outdoor seating for warm evenings.

A small bar, latteria and gelateria in the centre of Canelli, run by Silvana, whose warm welcome brings people back. Breakfast is the main event, with walnut brioche, vegan croissants and artisan cakes, and there's a sheltered outdoor area that stays cool in summer, plus gelato in flavours like mango and lemon.

A bar on the main square in the centre of Canelli for aperitivo and after-dinner cocktails, made with care from good ingredients. A decent wine list and small plates of food come at moderate prices, and mornings bring cappuccino and brioche.

A small, welcoming bar in Canelli for a coffee break, a toasted sandwich or an aperitivo. The two women behind the counter are the reason regulars keep coming; the aperitivo is generous and the prices fair, though it can get busy.

A small, busy bar in Canelli, set a little away from the main street, that covers breakfast, a light lunch and aperitivo. Tramezzini, sandwiches and filled focaccia sit in the window at lunchtime, but the aperitivo is the main draw, with generous plates and good cocktails. It's often crowded and can get noisy.

A gelateria and café in Canelli where the gelato is the draw, served with a smile and a good espresso alongside. The shop is spotless, the flavour list long, and a sugar-free vanilla sweetened with stevia holds its own against the classics. Dogs are welcome.

A pastry shop and café in Canelli run by the Balbo sisters, with a counter of fresh pastries and light leavened goods. The bombolone and the charcoal croissant stand out, an aperitivo arrives with mini pizzas and homemade snacks, and prices are fair.

A kiosk café and gelateria in central Canelli that's a summer fixture for gelato, with only a few flavours, all of them very good. Filled focaccia and other savoury snacks cover a quick lunch, there's plenty of seating, and the staff are quick with a smile and a chat.

Right on the piazza, and a reliable stop for a quick coffee — the staff speak some English, so ordering's easy. Alongside the drinks there are light plates like caprese and bresaola.

A small, clean bar in Canelli for breakfast, a quick lunch or an aperitivo, with two friendly women behind the counter. The coffee is good and the food tasty and promptly served, though space is tight and it gets warm at lunchtime.

Canelli's regional enoteca, set up to showcase the wines of the town and the surrounding Astesana area. Visitors remember good local food and an easy Italian mood in the courtyard, and summer evenings have brought music and cocktails.

The shop of the Coppo winery in Canelli, where the estate's sparkling wines and Barbera can be tasted and bought in a tastefully furnished room. The staff are friendly and know the wines well.

A wine café in Canelli looking onto the square, used for a light lunch of salumi, cheese and polenta or an early-evening aperitivo with a glass of local sparkling wine. Opinions on value have split lately, with some visitors finding the aperitivo platters thin for the price and the service uneven.

A central bar in Canelli that runs from the school-run breakfast to aperitivo, with quick service, outdoor seating and a decent wine list. It's also a spot to watch Serie A football over a drink, and the staff are friendly.

An all-round bar in Canelli with ample parking, good for coffee and a wide choice of brioches, cannoli and pastries in the morning, then focaccia, pizza and a simple lunch menu later on. It doubles as a lottery and bill-payment point, and the welcome is friendly.

A large bar in Canelli with outdoor seating, used mostly for breakfast and a quick, cheap working lunch of pasta, a main and a side with water and wine included. The coffee and table service are good; the lunchtime cooking divides opinion.