Montemagno Monferrato

The castle crowns the top of the hill, its crenellated walls rising straight from the rock above the borgo. Held for centuries by a succession of feudal families — the Turco, then the Grisella, Paleologi and Gonzaga, and finally the House of Savoy by 1708 — it was remodelled from a fortress into a stately residence in the early 1700s, and keeps an unusual elliptical inner courtyard. Twelve numbered medieval lanes, marked in Roman numerals, climb the hill to reach it. Now privately owned by the Conti Calvi di Bergolo, it opens to visitors on set dates through the regional Castelli Aperti circuit.

La Mondianese (the D&Vine farm) sits on the Montemagno hill and works its own rows of Barbera, Grignolino and the local grapes. A visit walks you through the vineyard and the working cellar and ends at a table, tasting the estate wines and their grappas — and you can carry a few bottles home from the shop. Tastings run at 10:30 and 15:30; format and price depend on what you arrange beforehand, so book ahead by phone or email.

A Baroque square in the old centre of Montemagno Monferrato, where a grand staircase of Cumiana stone climbs to the parish church. The Santissima Trinità, with its Baroque front, stands beside it, the 18th-century confraternity church of San Michele also faces the square, and narrow lanes connect it with the castle.

From Tenuta Montemagno you can head out into the Monferrato hills on an e-bike, rolling past the vineyards and hamlets with the motor taking the sting out of the climbs — the estate calls it suitable for all ages and abilities. You can just rent the bikes, or add a private guided tour for a fee. Arrange rental or a guide with the estate before your ride.

The Romanesque ruin of San Vittore stands on a panoramic hilltop southeast of the borgo, near the cemetery — only its 12th-century bell tower and part of the apse survive, the tower propped on a single column to keep it from collapsing. It marks the site of an early settlement that faded as villagers moved up to the safety of the castle. A quiet stop on the Via del Romanico, reached on foot or by the country road out of town.

Tenuta Montemagno is a wine estate and relais on the hills above the village, and its cellar tasting comes in three routes you pick from: a run through Piedmont's native grapes, a white-focused flight, or a vertical of Barbera "the emblem of Monferrato," from sparkling to aged. Each includes a guided walk of the winery, and you can add a local board of cured meats and cheeses. Book by phone or email before you come.

Montemagno's Baroque parish church — dedicated to Saints Martin and Stephen, but long known too as the church of the Assunta — closes the top of Piazza San Martino behind a curved, columned portico. The present building went up in 1730; the theatrical staircase and rotunda were added in 1776 to a design by Count Beinasco, and in 1822-24 the architect Pietro Del Mastro reshaped the interior around a dome, frescoed with the Assumption of the Virgin among music-making angels. The square it presides over is often counted among the most beautiful in Piedmont.

Tenuta Montemagno pairs you with a truffle hunter and their dog for a walk in the woods around the estate, reading the ground for truffles while the trifulau shares how the hunt actually works. It runs from May through November, so which truffle you turn up depends on the season. Suited to couples and small groups, and shaped around what you're after — arrange it with the estate ahead of time.

Classic Piedmontese cooking with a few modern turns, known for well-judged meat dishes — the slow-cooked pork cheek, battuta and agnolotti come up again and again — alongside a keenly priced wine list. Service is friendly, there is a terrace for warm evenings, and it sits just outside the centre, so a car helps.

A father-and-son kitchen serving Piedmontese classics over long, unhurried dinners, with a sommelier introducing local varietals and a cheese trolley that guests single out. The gnocchi and the pasta with prawns and Parmesan cream draw particular praise, and the welcome stays warm for a solo diner or a table of six.

Chef-owner Giorgio runs the room himself, walking guests through a Piedmontese menu built on locally sourced ingredients and a good selection of meat, paired with fairly priced wines. The cosy interior and outdoor terrace both draw praise, it welcomes families, and it is one of the few in the area open on a Monday.

A small village trattoria with only a handful of tables and a community feel, serving typical Monferrato home cooking. The mixed antipasti, agnolotti with butter and thyme and hazelnut cake stand out, portions run generous and prices stay reasonable — though the few seats can make a lunch table hard to come by.

A vermouth and wine bar specialising in negronis, spritz and other vermouth-based drinks, backed by a focused list from the winery just steps away. The modern two-level interior opens onto a terrace with views over Montemagno and the hills, and generous charcuterie and cheese platters — with vegetarian and vegan options — keep pace with the drinks.

A tiny aperitivo bar with just a couple of tables inside and a terrace looking out over the Monferrato hills, pouring local wines by the glass alongside beer and cocktails. Generous sharing platters and welcoming staff who talk visitors through the regional producers make it an easy pre-dinner stop.