Murisengo

A hilltop castle crowning Murisengo's old centre, its tall tower a landmark visible for miles across the hills. The interior is private and rarely open, but the handsomely kept exterior and the sweeping views over the Piedmont vineyards reward the climb up through the borgo.

Piero and Barbara farm organically up at San Candido, on the Bric d'la Losna ridge above Murisengo, and their visits are done by appointment with the people who make the wine. The cellar tour walks you through the vineyard and the no-intervention winemaking, then sits you down to four of their wines with Gioioso oil, their own hazelnuts, cheese, cured meats and focaccia — about two hours, from four people up. In warmer months they also run a longer walk through the vineyards and woods with the farm animals, or a lighter tasting by the pool.

An unusual octagonal brick tempietto in the hamlet of Corteranzo, its tiered, pagoda-like drum and lantern cupola rising above the vineyards. Designed by the Piedmontese Baroque architect Bernardo Vittone and completed in 1760, it is reached by a short cypress-lined lane and counts among Murisengo's most distinctive monuments.

Athos runs Agricola Isabella on organic and biodynamic lines at Corteranzo, the hamlet above Murisengo, with as little done in the cellar as possible. You taste the estate wines — Freisa, Barbera, the Baratuciat white, a rosé of local grapes — in the Bacco e Tabacco room at their Canonica di Corteranzo relais, and the visit takes in the historic infernòt, the hand-cut underground chamber where Monferrato families have always kept their bottles. Arrange it with the estate in advance.

A sky-blue giant bench on the Colle Belvedere, reached by a short uphill walk through Nebbiolo and Grignolino vineyards. From the seat the view opens across the Monferrato hills to the distant Alps, and a small lantern and notebook invite a quiet moment — a favourite at sunset with a glass of local wine.

A lone Romanesque tower, all that survives of a long-gone church, standing on a grassy hilltop above the town. A short but steep path up from near the schools leads to it, through a small park with benches and wide views over the Monferrato hills — a favourite spot for a sunset picnic or aperitif.

An unpretentious, family-run pizzeria with thin, crisp crusts, generous toppings and homemade desserts at easy prices. The kitchen reaches beyond pizza to meat dishes and house-made liqueurs, served in a relaxed, local atmosphere. A spot favoured by residents rather than passing tourists.

A takeaway pizzeria where owner Alessandro turns out light, thin-crust pizzas with fresh ingredients and inventive toppings. Service is fast and friendly, but it's takeout only, so ordering ahead by phone is wise. Regulars keep coming back for the quality and the welcome.

A welcoming, elegantly decorated dining room with a sweeping country view, known for a good-value set menu of antipasti, pasta and a main. The tagliolini with ragù and braised pork cheek stand out, paired with local Barbera del Monferrato. The locanda also hosts weddings and large celebrations.

A spacious, welcoming bar with friendly owners, good for a quiet coffee or an aperitif. Visitors single out the well-priced wine and the attentive service. A relaxed, easy-going spot.

A roadside bar on the main road near Murisengo, handy for an excellent coffee or a quick stop. The owners prepare hearty sandwiches with local cured meats and improvised aperitif snacks, and the homey, old-fashioned feel wins people over. A simple, friendly spot for passing travellers.