Agliano Terme

The last trace of Agliano's castle, razed in the 17th century, this brick lookout tower rises on its old foundations. A steep external staircase spirals up to a view over the Monferrato ridges, with the Alps and Monviso on a clear day. A plaque below recalls Bianca Lancia, born here, who married Frederick II.

Lionello Rosso makes almost nothing but Barbera, and he makes five of them — San Bastian, Cascina Perno, Carlinet, Infine and Gioco dell'Oca — each cru a slightly different argument about what Barbera d'Asti can be. You taste with the man who grew the grapes, in Italian, English or German, while he sets out Grana Padano and salami and talks through the hills each wine came from. The wine ages in two cellars, a vaulted one from 1698 under the village and a newer one out at Cascina Perno. Message ahead through the site and he'll usually find you a slot, even mid-harvest.

Agliano's medieval castle was pulled down in 1637, in the wars over who would rule Monferrato, and nothing of the fortress survives — the church later raised on its ruins was itself gone by 1770. This was the seat of the Lancia family: Bianca Lancia, born here, bore Frederick II of Swabia a son, Manfredi, who became king of Sicily. There's nothing to tour now; the one trace left is the brick tower on the old foundations, with a plaque that keeps the story.

The Cocito family has worked the Crena hill above Agliano since 1868, and Sergio still pours the tastings himself. It's Italian-first and unhurried — a run through their Barbera, from the everyday La Serena up to the Violanda Nizza DOCG, with cheese and salami set out alongside. A little Italian goes a long way here, and the wines run roughly seven to fifteen euro a bottle if you want to take some home. Book a slot through the cellar-visit page or by phone.

Filippa has been a family name in Agliano for five generations, and these days it's Matteo who walks you through the cellar — in good English, which not every grower on these hills can manage. It's a proper tour, start to finish, that ends with five wines poured against local salumi and cheese: Barbera d'Asti first, then Grignolino and Dolcetto, with a rosato for summer. Come in September and you might catch the harvest in full swing. Book ahead through their site — they're shut Sundays and only open mornings on Saturday.

Six castle villages pool their Barbera into this cooperative cellar, and a younger crew has turned it into a proper stop rather than a bulk-wine warehouse. The guided visit takes in L'Anima del Vino, the winery's own small wine museum, and ends with a sit-down tasting — reckon on thirty to forty euro a head. Mirco and the team host in English as readily as Italian, and the value borders on absurd: bottles start around five or six euro, the Nizza Riserva near twenty. Ring ahead to book, and note the cellar's shut at weekends.

You don't have to be staying to use the spa at Villa Fontana Relais, in the thermal wine village of Agliano Terme — external guests can book in too. The wellness area, pools and relaxation spaces come as a shorter 'Spa Break' of about two and a half hours or a full day. Reserve online in advance.

Tucked into a roadside service area beside a filling station, it's where local workmen and truckers pull in for lunch. The menu runs to two or three dishes, recited by Maurizio himself, and it's home-cooked, hearty and cheap. It fills up fast and feels like eating round someone's kitchen table.

Tables look out over the vineyards, and the kitchen plates each course with real care, polished and attentive service to match. It's where couples come for an anniversary or a slow celebration dinner. Prices sit above the local average, and the panorama tends to earn them.

Part of the Le Fonti campsite by the swimming pool, this pizzeria turns out specialty pies, the Boia Fauss and the Enzo-Super among them, alongside grilled plates and Piedmontese dishes like carpione. The dining room is a wood-lined, air-conditioned space, and owner Enzo works the floor. Takeaway pizza too.

A wine bar with a deep list of Barbera and craft beer, plus tastings paired with local snacks at fair prices. Order a drink and the aperitivo nibbles arrive free, the Piedmontese way. There's a terrace out front, a young crowd in the evenings, and Gianni behind the bar.

A small village bar where Giovanna runs the counter, coffee and breakfast in the morning, a quick lunch of typical dishes later. The homemade focaccia gets a mention, and there's a tobacco counter too. Giovanna's known for her frank, teasing banter as much as the food.