San Marzano Oliveto

The old towers share a piazza with the parish church, looking out over vineyards toward Monviso on a clear day. These days the castle works mainly as a wedding and event venue, run hands-on by manager Tania, though groups can also rent its rooms for a self-catered stay.

RaDe is Raimondo and his son Daniele — the name's just their two — who left Sicily and the city in 1998 to make wine above San Marzano Oliveto. Andrea walks you through the modern cellar and the winemaking, then sits you down to taste: the Nizza and Barbera you'd expect, but also a Timorasso off two hectares of vines planted in the '70s, and an Alta Langa metodo classico that spends years on the lees. It's by appointment — Saturdays want at least four of you, Sundays only by arrangement. Ask about the Sunday that pairs a vineyard horseback ride with lunch at the farmhouse.

Guido Berta might come in off the tractor to pour for you — that's the register here, a family cantina above San Marzano Oliveto run by Guido, Patrizia and their daughter Alessia. Down in the old underground cellar they'll open the whole range, Barbera d'Asti first, and put out salami, cheese and focaccia while you go; no clock-watching. The Barbera's the reason to come, six hectares of it, but ask about Canto di Luna too. Call ahead — it's a working farm, not a tasting room with set slots.

Carussin has been Barbera country for the same family for nearly a century — Bruna and Luigi, now their sons Matteo and Luca, farming fifteen biodynamic hectares above San Marzano Oliveto. A visit starts in what they call the cellar of the heart, where the grandparents worked, and — weather permitting — carries on into the vines with the donkeys they raise, for a merendino out in the rows. The wines are natural and low-intervention: Barbera d'Asti and a Moscato they call Filari Corti, poured without any hurry. Book ahead; they run it by appointment, and the welcome is the point.

You set out on horseback from the Scuderia Serego stable in San Marzano Oliveto and ride the vineyard hills toward Moasca, actors telling the story of the medieval castles and villages as you go. It ends with a gourmet picnic and a wine tasting. Beginners are fine — just say what level you're at when you book.

VIV means "alive" in the local dialect, which fits: Alessandro and his daughter Ilaria make natural wine on the hill above San Marzano Oliveto — orange skins, pet-nat, a few limited labels, alongside the straight Barbera. The visit walks the cellar and vineyards, then sits you down for six wines over about an hour and a half: €20, or €25 with local cheese and salami. Two of you is enough to book, and they take reservations any day but Sunday. It's young and still finding its edges — honestly, that's half the fun.

The wheeled meat cart is the thing everyone remembers — rabbit and bollito misto carved tableside, with truffles shaved over eggs in season. It's classic Piemontese cooking, family-run and long trusted by locals, backed by a deep wine list that leans on Nizza and Barbera. Save room for the Brunet chocolate pudding.

A Macedonian grill in the Monferrato hills, where the mixed grilled meats and pastramajlia flatbread arrive in portions big enough to take half home. Fried croquettes, stuffed olives and mozzarella round out a friendly, well-priced table — just don't come in a rush, since one waiter often runs the room.

Chef Tony sends out a set tasting menu of regional dishes — plin, stuffed onion flan, guinea fowl — rather than an a la carte list, so arrive ready to be led. The draw is as much the setting: a manicured garden and big windows opening onto vineyards and hills. Ask the price before you sit down.

In the historic centre, this is the tasting room for the Franco Mondo winery — work through the estate's own bottles, including their Alta Langa sparkling, at prices barely marked up from the cellar. Order a platter of local cheese and salumi, and in warm months take it out to the small courtyard for an aperitivo.